A few weeks ago we bumped into a local couple out hiking up the Col des Mines.  Leaning on their hiking poles, they were delighted to stop and share their favourite nuggets of local knowledge from the vast encyclopaedia that they had gathered over their last 30 years here.  The thing that piqued my interest the most was when they told us that you could find Edelweiss growing wild at the top of the mountain.  “Whereabouts?”  I asked excitedly, with my head spinning in anticipation, wondering if we could do an urgent detour on the way home.  “Up by the top of the Pierre Avoi.  Take the lower path, not the one that climbs to the summit, and then leave the path.  You really have to know where it is, but there are about six of them, maybe 200m away from the footpath, sort of in the rocks.”  In my excitement I foolishly believed that these must be sufficiently precise instructions, so the very next day we got our hiking kit together and set off with the boys, who are 5 and 7 years old.  I had been talking to them about Edelweiss all summer, while pointing out all the different flowers we could see on our many hikes, explaining that it was incredibly rare and so they should look for it at all times.  I have never seen the delicate yellow and white flowers growing in the wild, despite spending many happy years tramping about the Alps in summer, and held them in kind of magical regard.  We were all quite excited to think that we knew where to find some, so we set off with a spring in our step, hunting for Edelweiss in La Tzoumaz.

I took the lead, with my head turning steadily from side to side, eyes constantly scanning the ground up to 200m from the path.  I tripped up several times as I wasn’t really able to look where I was going without dragging my eyes away from their search.  I didn’t really know where to look: separated from other flowers?  in sparsely-grassed areas?  in the shade of small boulders?  The Alpine Flowers book that we carried said somewhat enigmatically and rather unhelpfully that “You’ll recognise it when you see it.”

We eventually neared the top, where we came across a lady who was out walking with her dog.  “Hello! We were wondering if you could help us. We’re looking for Edelweiss. Do you know where we might find some near here?”  “Edelweiss…?  Ummm…  Is that it?” and she pointed to the nearest flower.  The type with a large, tough flower-head and no neck, that looks like someone has beheaded it and dropped it on the ground.  Definitely not Edelweiss.  We walked on, none-the-wiser, until we came across another lady, this time without a dog.  “Hello! We were wondering if you could help us. We’re looking for Edelweiss. Do you know where we might find some near here?”  “Umm… There are some marmottes over there…!”

Great.  Marmottes.  Don’t get me wrong, I love the furry little fellows. With a clever design that is a sort of cross between a giant squirrel and a miniature bear, I think they are loveable and cute and a great tourist attraction.  I’m just convinced that they are all part of a conspiracy organised by manufacturers of 300mm zoom lenses.  The marmottes lie in wait until we wander into their catchment area, then they shout and whistle from far away to make sure that we notice them.  Then they stand still in front of stunning panoramic vistas, waiting patiently while we line up our cameras.  Then the mischievous little fellows try to keep a straight face while we scowl frustratedly at the screens on our cameras and smartphones and try to make out whether we got a photo of them or just some more rocks.

Anyway, we carried on winding around the rocky outcrop, with me becoming more and more convinced that the whole outing was a disaster.   My only consolation was that at least we could visit the Maison de la Foret on the way home to La Tzoumaz and see where they have planted some Edelweiss in their nature display.

Soon we arrived at the foot of the climbing area and came across two couples enjoying the climbing routes.  “Hello! We were wondering if you could help us. We’re looking for Edelweiss. Do you know where we might find some near here?”  “Edelweiss…?  Ummm…  There’s some here by my foot.”  I looked up at the climber in astonishment.  True enough, he was pointing at something growing 10m up the sheer rockface, clinging onto a tiny ledge near his foot.  I didn’t know whether to laugh triumphantly or cry in despair as we would never get a good look at it from down here.  “And here’s some more!” he said, pointing to another flower, this time only 10cm from his nose.  How I longed to be up on that wall!

“Right, team!”  I cried with renewed enthusiasm, “Everyone split up and start looking on all the rocks and cliff faces.  Shout when you’ve found some!”  Now that I knew that Edelweiss really did grow around here, I was sure that we’d get lucky and stumble across some.  Sure enough, within a couple of minutes, the shout came loud and clear.  “Over here!”  We all scrambled over the boulders, inched precariously to the edge and peered over.  There it was.  My quest was over.  For the first time in my life, I was looking at real, wild Edelweiss on the side of a Swiss mountain.  Suddenly the Sound of Music was in my ears and I burst into song,

“Edelweiss, Edelweiss,

Every morning you greet me,

Small and white, clean and bright,

You look happy to meet meeeeeeeee!”

The boys were too young to understand the significance of finally finding something that you had for years believed was near-impossible to find, but they seemed infected with my enthusiasm.  Stroking the thick soft petals gently with our fingertips, we cooed over their beauty.  We called out to passers-by to come and look, but most just nodded and walked on, leaving me to wonder if the magic was somehow being eroded by today’s multi-cultural society.

Still buoyed by our success, we stopped to gather berries on the way down the hill, amassing an impressive quantity of fresh bilberries, raspberries and wild strawberries.  “That was a good day!” the boys agreed later on after dinner, with sticky fingers coated in warm summer fruit tart and big grins on their tired faces.

Hunting for Edelweiss

The Pierre Avoi is accessible within about 20 minutes hike from the top of the Savoleyres telecabin, or 90 minutes if hiking up from La Tzoumaz.  Best seen during July or August, but still present during September.

Be prepared

Take a day-pack with extra layers of clothing, sunglasses and high-factor SPF suncream.  Walking boots (or strong trainers), water and a picnic are advisable.  A zoom lens could be useful to thwart the marmottes.  Don’t forget to remind yourself of the lyrics to the song.

Recommended for

Hikers, nature-lovers, families and anyone with some level of fitness who remembers the Sound of Music

Not recommended for

People uncomfortable with narrow mountain footpaths or uphill hiking.

Insider knowledge

Start looking around near the big white arrow on this map:

The post Hunting for Edelweiss in La Tzoumaz appeared first on 4vallees4saisons.com.

INSIGHT #1 – Even if you’ve never been on a two-family holiday, consider asking a family of like-minded friends to join you.  If the kids get on together and you enjoy the adult company then this can be a great mix.

I got my first lesson in the complexity of the self-catered multi-family holiday before we left home.  As we ran around hastily shoving the last few items in the food box, with no idea if we had the makings of at least one meal for eight or not, I started to understand why so many groups plan a long time in advance.  I’ve often been bemused by clients contacting me up six weeks in advance to ask what dimensions of baking trays would be available in their chalet or whether there was a soup-mixer.  Now I realised that this is simply the sign of an organised, experienced holidaymaker and that I was hopelessly outclassed.

INSIGHT #2 – Plan at least the first few meals in advance, and make sure you have the relevant spices, herbs and oils.  You can expect the previous clients to have left behind some salt, pepper and random condiments, but if you really need Piri-Piri sauce or extra virgin olive oil, then take it with you.  Don’t forget the basics like butter, milk and coffee/tea, along with paper towels, dishwasher tablets, a few bin bags, sandwich bags and hand soap as these are not normally provided.

Given the late time that we were scheduled to arrive, I had cleverly pre-cooked the dinner for our arrival.  As such, I found myself sitting in the passenger seat of our overstuffed car with a big cooking pot of chilli between my feet and a bag of raincoats on my lap while the children bounced all over the back seats in excitement.

Our next good idea for the trip was to meet the other family at the village playground when we arrived.  The trampoline, table tennis, swings and slides acted like a huge sponge as the boys kept feeding them more and more energy.  When the others arrived, we got to have a quick hug and catch up whilst the kids all tried to show off their latest gymnastic and judo moves to us and to each other.

INSIGHT #3 – Plan somewhere to meet so you can all arrive at the chalet together, either a playground or a handy café.  The first family to arrive can visit the agency to check in and get the keys, along with a host of local and tourist information.

We had chosen the fabulous Chalet Chaupine for our holiday and as we drove up the winding road everyone was peering out of the car windows in anticipation to try and get the first glimpse of where we were going call home for the duration of our trip.

“Wow!” came the first call, as a large black, three-storey chalet came into sight.  It was raised up from the side of the road into a prominent position and set in a wonderful, varied-level garden area.  Before I had time to cut the engine, the kids had bolted out of the car to run around exploring.  “Coo-eee!” came a small voice from the upstairs balcony.  “Coooooool! I found a tree-house!” came another from the wild meadow area up level with the top floor.  I breathed a sigh of relief, safe in the knowledge that happy, excited children were virtually all that we needed for an excellent holiday, and this place seemed to ooze adventure and discovery.

INSIGHT #4 – Make the most of the outdoors.  The change of environment makes it very easy to set the expectation that there will be no screens or computer games during the holiday, and children will enjoy the freedom and creativity that comes with unstructured time outside.

As the heavy wooden door swung open we were hit by the wondrous smell of larch wood.  “Shoes off right now please!” I wailed helplessly after the children as they ran through the entrance area like a charging herd of buffalo.  It was a well thought-out space, with plenty of hooks and shelf space with a long bench running the whole length through.  There was even a second row of hooks at child height, which was sadly ignored by the boys as they threw their jackets on the floor and sprinted into the chalet.

I soon learned that there are three phases to moving into a chalet.  The first part is one of Exploration and Decisions.  We had already had a pre-discussion on who would be sleeping where and why. Paying no attention to such boring logic, the kids ran straight into the room with four bunk beds and decided to make camp.  The adults went more methodically through each floor, looking into all the rooms and figuring out which room they wanted to negotiate for.  Thankfully, they were all great options with plenty of storage space and access to good-sized bathrooms.  The downstairs rooms had wooden beams running across the ceiling, access to the lower level garden and either a fabulous view across the valley or a promise of morning sunrise over the distant mountain peaks.  The two upstairs had a charm of their own as they were set into the exposed rafters.  Although we all secretly understood that we were not actually intending to use it, we were all excited at the prospect of there being a sauna in the chalet.

The second phase of moving in is the Grand Unpacking.  The kitchen was large, modern and well-stocked.  We pulled open cupboard after cupboard to discover pots, pans, raclette machines, fondue sets, mixing and baking kit, more glasses, bowls and mugs than we could hope to use and even a champagne bucket.  I loved the huge double fridge with its multitude of large vegetable drawers and its ice-machine. The fact that the kitchen was so well-stocked presented the first challenge.  Each family had brought supplies.  Where was there an empty cupboard tall enough to store enough breakfast cereal for a horde of eight hungry holidaymakers?  The next challenge was trying to get the hob to work, before realising that my precious pan of homemade chilli was not actually compatible with the induction hob.

The final phase is setting up the Moment of Calm.  Once the children had been fed, bathed, storied and put to bed with promises of a holiday jam-packed with adventure, the chalet took on a calm, serene feel.  Within minutes, the fire was lit, the wine was poured and the adults collectively took a deep sigh of relaxation. Snuggled up on the deep, comfy sofas, with music drifting from the stereo dock we let go of all the daily stresses and strains and allowed ourselves to be enveloped by the magic of the mountains.

INSIGHT #5 – Don’t forget that you are on holiday as well as the children!  If you keep the days full of adventure and activity, then there won’t be any complaints about being sent to bed at a reasonable time to allow you some adult time.

Daytimes were filled with an array of adventures and activities. A small amount of research had allowed us to sign up for the Trail de la Pierre Avoi, a heavyweight trail running race that climbs a dizzying 2000m from the valley floor to the top of the highest rocky outcrop and back through La Tzoumaz to return to the host village of Saxon, a punishing 36km later.  Thankfully there was a 1km children’s race so we didn’t have to sign up for the Trail itself.  All participants were awarded a commemorative trophy and a barbecue ticket so that took care of lunch as we applauded each muddy, exhausted and exhilarated finisher as they sprinted or limped home after five or six or more hours of racing.

A short drive from La Tzoumaz is the Parc des Iles, a fabulous green space with a large lake, playground with miniature steam train, and plenty of other attractions.  There are trampolines with elastic harnesses, a climbing wall, mini golf and a high-rope park with 160 features, some of which are accessible to children from age 4.  When we were there, there was a paddle-boarding open day on the lake with have-a-go lessons and wacky races. There was also a life-sized model dinosaur exhibition amongst the trees with a quiz for the children.

INSIGHT #6 – Look online before you travel to see what events are organised in the area.  Often there are more things scheduled over the weekend, which can leave you a bit stuck for ideas on a weekday.  If you arrive on a Friday or Saturday list a few options for the first day or two, and save the lazy days in and around the chalet for the quieter weekdays.

A visit to Saillon took in this historic walled town perched on an island of rocks near the valley floor, with its steep and curving streets and tower perched on top.  There is a Museum of Counterfeit Money and an easy walk up to the castle tower, which is open for climbing up the spiral staircase to admire the incredible views from the top.  From here you can clearly see up and down the length of the wide and glaciated Rhone Valley, with the tiny cars crawling along the bottom, and the rocks of the Pierre Avoi towering overhead. It was a rainy morning for us so we were privileged by a host of large snails clinging halfway up the grass stalks, and small fluffs of clouds clinging halfway up the huge mountainsides.  On another day, we planned to visit the thermal baths at Bains de Saillon with their indoor and outdoor pools, hot swimming stream and range of saunas and plunge pools.

There are hiking trails criss-crossing the mountainside, labelled with a liberal sprinkling of the ubiquitous yellow signposts that are almost a trademark of Switzerland.  Many lead steeply up to fantastic peaks marked with crosses or cairns, or to beautiful cols where the mountain range spans away from you on all sides.  The celebrated footpaths that follow the “bisses” make perfect family hiking routes as they follow the ancient streams that were channelled in a gentle incline around the mountains.  With very little encouragement, the children discovered a veritable treasure trail of fascinating birds, insects, plants and creepy crawlies.

INSIGHT #7 – There’s hours of fun to be had out on the mountain footpaths and trails.  Pick up a map from the local tourist office and ask them if they have a Treasure Hunt or quiz or themed trail with animal sculptures.  Then put a picnic in your backpack and get out there, keeping an eye out for interesting flora and fauna to keep excitement levels up.

The traditional “Inalpe” at Balavaud took us right into the local culture.  After twenty minutes’ drive up an impossibly narrow and winding forest road we arrived at the fabulous Chalet des Alpes restaurant, set in a tiny hamlet with a backdrop of traditional wooden chalets on stilts and an operational chairlift.  We had turned up too late to see the moment the huge and muscular black Herens cows were released as they arrived for the first time in the pastureland.  Each year they naturally go through a fighting process to define the hierarchy for the herd, with each pair locking horns and pushing until one gives way to cede her place in the hierarchy.  The local villagers have long made a festival out of this occasion, and we were delighted to find a marquee complete with hot cheese raclette being scraped onto plates with special miniature potatoes and paired with cornichons and silverskin onions.  This was being washed down with plenty of local Fendant wine as the delightful notes of an alphorn trio drifted through the air.  A handful of delighted tourists mingled with the assorted locals and weather-beaten farmers who spoke in thick Valaisan accents.  Everyone was in high spirits and looking forward to the late afternoon finals, where the cows would again be brought out for the final stages of the tournament that lead up to the final knockout round to identify which one will be crowned Queen. Each cow wore a number and a handy brochure told us the stage name of each cow so that we could pick our favourites.

The area is famous for much more than fighting cows, and every available inch of land seems to be cultivated for wine-growing or fruit production.  The landscape is smothered with row upon row of neatly-arranged vines and blooming apricot trees.  Strawberries and asparagus were in season so we called into one of the many local farm-shops to savour the freshness of the produce and left with our arms laden with goodies. Along with enough fruit and vegetable to feed the hungry hordes, we also picked up some locally-brewed beers and loads of real fruit juice, along with some Iserables cheese and a perfectly-spiced dried sausage for aperitif.

INSIGHT #8 – There are plenty of handwritten signs at the side of the road showing you where you can pick up fresh fruit and veg, just follow one and see what’s in season.  It may be asparagus season or apricot time when you visit, but you’re guaranteed that freshly-picked flavour and freshness.

Early evenings back at the chalet were filled with lazy barbecues, which had to compete with tree-house adventures, swing-ball tournaments and table-tennis matches, or the children quite simply running around the surrounding pastureland with sticks and butterflies, alpine flowers and the imagination of five-to-nine-year-old group-think.  Randomly clad in socks and shorts, shoes and raincoats, sunhats or t-shirts, it didn’t seem to matter to them.  The blissful freedom and wonder of life in the mountains is such an easy place for the young to step out of their day-to-day world of homework or electronic devices and re-discover creative free-play.  My only regret was forgetting to pack paper towels, as the children were quickly plastered from head-to-toe in chicken marinade.  A beginner’s error.

INSIGHT #9 – Garden games can provide hours of fun for children.  Some chalets have table tennis or boules.  We provide Swingball sets in many of our chalets as it is hilariously good fun and can be adapted to suit all ages – try asking Dad to play on one leg to make it fair for the younger ones!

Late evenings were filled with that gorgeous peacefulness of parents enjoying the well-earned knowledge that the children are sleeping deeply once again.  Conversations moved easily from subject to subject as the evenings moved easily from the long dining table under its impressive two-level stag-antler chandelier to the soft cushions and animal-skin rug of the lounge area.  The open mezzanine area upstairs that served both as a den and a boardgame battleground during the day was transformed into a quiet haven for reading, or sometimes a chilled zone to watch the match without disturbing the rest of the group.  Even the dishwasher seemed to be an ultra-quiet version that didn’t intrude on the evening calm as the lights across the valley slowly winked out, one by one.  There is no light pollution here, so the stars are an amazing sight to behold from the balcony.

INSIGHT #10 – If you have gone for the highly-recommended screen-free holiday option check if there are books, board games, toys or even a deck of cards in the chalet, if not it would be wise to bring a couple to ensure you get that downtime after dark.

It was a shame to leave at the end of our stay, but nobody seemed too sad as everyone was still buzzing from our adventures.  We had spent a lot of quality time together and the two families had smoothly merged into one.  When the family bonds are this tight, it seems that all is right with the world and I smiled contentedly to myself as I drove them back to the real world, already planning our next summer holidays here in the mountains.

Do you have any insights to share?  We’d love to hear them in the comments section below.

Further reading

• Check out our extensive range of chalets in La Tzoumaz to see which one would suit you and your tribe.
• Can’t decide when to visit?  Here’s our month-by-month guide on when to visit.
• Links galore on the family resort of La Tzoumaz and the surrounding area here on our links page.

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Designing the hike

1) Go up!  I don’t know if it’s due to short stride length, inefficiency of motion or reduced body weight, but compared to adults, children seem much better at hiking upwards than hiking along the flat.  We unintentionally proved this one day by selecting a route with 8km of flat followed by 800m of climb.  The 8km of flat took us four hours, the 800m hike upwards took less than two hours.  Lesson for the future: save walking along the flat for the grand-parents.

2) Hike in woods.  When the boys were young, they would walk much better on a woodland path than on an open footpath.  I don’t know why, but perhaps it’s because a path lined with trees demands to be followed?

3) Do a one-way walk.  A great route is to take the route de foret vert from La Tzoumaz around the mountain to Iserables, then take the bus back to La Tzoumaz.  Be warned, the bus only runs every two hours.   www.cff.ch.  Another favourite is hiking from the station in Grenolier through the woods to St Cergue.  The hike would take 2 to 3 hours, and we’d finish with lunch in a cafe before taking the train back down the hill to the car.  

4) Hike to a trampoline, or a bouncy castle.  The croix-de-coeur restaurant between Verbier and La Tzoumaz has a magic trampoline and a bouncy castle outside until the end of October.  We know the trampoline is magic:  we had dragged our five year old on a four hour hike, and every step he told us how tired his legs were.  Within seconds of seeing his brother on the trampoline, the tiredness seemed to magically evaporate!
http://www.buvette-alpage.ch/croix-de-coeur

Having fun on the hike

5) Find some snow in Summer!  Need I say more?  If there are two children of different ages/speeds, the child in front can use a stick to write messages or draw pictures in the snow for the child coming behind.

6) Look for mountain flowers.  Every swiss child has heard of the mysterious edelweiss.  The locals here know where to find them.  If you search for our edelweiss blog you will know too!

7) Dam a stream, or cross it on stepping stones.

8) Listen for birdsong, and look for animals. Cuckoos are fabulous as you can have a conversation with them by imitating their familiar sound, and there is usually at least one to be found somewhere in the forests around La Tzoumaz. Mischievous marmots can often be heard on sunny slopes, always sitting just out of range of whatever photography equipment you’ve bought with you.

Motivating the little ones

9) Start from different places, or at different times, and do a race.  Every time the children walk faster or further the new pace seems to stick, so even just doing this occasionally makes a big difference to the other walks.  And they really enjoy winning.

10) Climb to the top of something and promise to take a silly picture at the top.  It works to motivate adults as well!

And some bonus tips…

1) In Switzerland, the hiking routes are marked differently from mountain trails, which are significantly more dangerous.  The enclosed site gives a good description
http://www.wanderland.ch/en/hiking-trail-network-and-signalization.html

2) Take warm and waterproof clothing, and don’t forget the sunscreen, and a spare pair of socks if you’re going anywhere near water

3) Take non-sugar based snacks, and plenty of water.

4) Remember that being tired is necessary in order to get stronger.  The average time to the first “I’m tired” is normally less than 15 seconds, as is the time to subsequent repetitions.  Short of finding a magic trampoline, I don’t know of a way to stop this.  Patience, tolerance or earplugs are recommended.

This post first appeared as a Guest Blog by Percy Kirkman, on http://www.genevafamilydiaries.net/, a great blog for families in the Geneva area.

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It is only a short hour in the car from La Tzoumaz to Crans Montana, so we packed our hiking boots after a leisurely breakfast and set off down the mountain towards the autoroute.  James, our guide for the day, had already selected our start point, so we did not have to choose whether to visit the accessible station of Montana or the chic village of Crans.

Within an hour we found ourselves planning our picnic in Montana’s magnificent cheese shop (www.laiterieaupetitchalet.ch), ooooing and aaaahing over the different varieties of local tomme and the big vat of fresh honey that you can buy by the scoop.  As I stuffed my purchase into a rucksack, James didn’t hesitate to remind me smugly that “tomme” isn’t considered to be anything fancy by the locals as the word just means “cheese”.

There was plenty of parking at the Violettes Express telecabin station and we climbed into the modern cabins to be whisked away up to 2250m, clutching our 15CHF one-way tickets.  The mist was swirling atmospherically around us as we arrived at the top station, level with the clouds and we headed off behind the cabin onto a narrow footpath.  In one section the path rose so steeply that someone had thoughtfully installed some ladders, bolted into the rock and with strong rope for handrails.

We were chattering excitedly and swapping stories up and down the line when we got calls of “Shhhushhhh!!  Shhhhushhhh!” from our guide.  There, in front of us, posing like a fine, furry fellow, was a cute little marmotte, on the edge of a precipice with a stunning panorama as a backdrop.  It was a picture postcard moment, and I reflected on my own private suspicion that marmottes are part of a mountain conspiratory, and their role is to lie in wait for tourists, whistling loudly until we spot them, then looking as cute as possible until we finally admit that they really are too small to photograph without buying a new zoom lens.

We were more focussed on having a pleasant, social stroll than a hard work-out, so James soon brought us to a superbly-located restaurant, the Cry d’Er, perched on the edge of the steep mountainside and overlooking the Rhone Valley.  As seems fitting in Switzerland, we opted for triple chocolate – a steaming mug of hot chocolate served with individual squares of chocolate and then supplemented by our own hiking supplies of foil-wrapped Cailler.

“Is that the Matterhorn?”  we asked, surveying the snowcapped peaks around us.  “Ummmmm… let me just check…” replied James as he reached for his smartphone.  This was the moment that all of my romantic notions of guides and their mythical mountain knowledge came crashing to an abrupt end.  For years I had been in awe of anyone in the Alps who could answer a question such as “What’s that peak over there?” with a knowing gaze and an informative answer.  Three minutes and four euros later, I too had downloaded the PeakFinder app (www.peakfinder.org/mobile) and was happily scanning the panorama for my favourite mountains names.

We were out of the clouds now, so when we set off again we had a clear view of the lac de Tseuzier and the impressive dam that holds it back.  We also had a better view of the lunatics heading down the mountain-bike trails, clad in full-face helmets, shinpads and forearm guards.  I have to admit that it was a shame we had not come to ride the trails here, as it did look like fun.

Lunch was a sun-drenched picnic overlooking the Rhone valley from the terrace of a small restaurant that was closed until the ski season.  For the first time we managed to strip off down to t-shirts, although it was nowhere near hot enough to have melted my tomme.

On the way back down, we stopped from time to time to admire the different alpine flowers and mushrooms that we spotted, testing each other’s knowledge with interest, and concluding that most of us could barely tell a tasty chanterelle from a poisonous toadstool.  The last few hundred metres was a pleasant ramble along a forest trail and James led us dutifully into the animal-skin covered seats on the terrasse at Bar7 for an apres-hike beer to a chorus of “thank-yous” and a cheer for the guide.

On our way home, we took some time out to walk through the village of Montana and browse some of the shops.  There are enough to wander around for an hour or so, and we enjoyed looking through the ski stores for off-season discounts, and checking out the latest marmotte trinkets in the mountain deco shops.

Crans Montana Day Trip

Crans Montana is approximately 60 minutes drive from La Tzoumaz.  Plan to spend at least 4 hours there before sunset.

Be prepared

Take a day-pack with extra layers of clothing, sunglasses and high-factor SPF suncream.  Walking boots (or strong trainers), water and a picnic are advisable.  A zoom lens could be useful to thwart the marmottes.

Recommended for

Hikers, bikers, afternoon strollers and anyone who wants to see the Rhone Valley from the other side

Not recommended for

Anyone who doesn’t like mountains

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“It’ll be a bit steep for 15 minutes before you turn left into the forest and into the more gentle section.”  This was the only technical advice we received before he headed back into his cabin, despite neither of us having really seen a trottinette before.  Upon closer inspection, we accepted that his briefing was probably sufficient – a trottinette is essentially made up of a short plank between two small mountain-bike wheels that is equipped with front and rear suspension, two disc brakes and a large sticker displaying the telephone number for the emergency services.

We let off the brakes and started to roll down the hill.  As a keen mountain-biker, I first had to adjust to the fact that there are no pedals, no gears and no saddle.  Although I instinctively bent my knees a little to absorb the bumps, I found the lateral balance options a little restricted.  Once you get used to the fact that there is no possibility of shifting your weight between the pedals or even sticking your knee out for balance, the only option is to hold on tightly and try to start the braking sequence in time.  Trottinettes are quite heavy and the mountainside is steep, so they accelerate quickly and brake slowly.  Another feature of continental biking became painfully obvious as I desperately tried to scrub off some excess speed to get round one particular corner in the loose earth.  British bikes have the front brake on the right, like a motorcycle.  Continental bikes have the front brake on the left and under pressure I find it easy to confuse the front and back brakes.  The worst thing was that my husband was fiddling with his camera and missed

the whole graceful performance that ended with me crashing down into the soft earth with a grunt at his feet.

Now mildly winded and authentically decorated with muddy scrapes, this tumble had given me new confidence.  I now understood how the laws of physics would prevent my trusty steed from behaving like anything other than a runaway bicycle with no pedals, and if I treated it with such low expectations we would get along just fine.  We squealed with laughter at each twist and turn of the dirt track, fighting to stay upright as we raced each other down the hill.  Each bump, gravel patch and deep rut in the ground provided its own challenge to negotiate and required such focus that we were barely aware of the stunning mountain panorama around us.

We bounced past hikers and dog-walkers who waved us a cheery “Bonne descente!”  We whizzed past serious cyclists climbing up the long road to the summit.  Children and adults alike stopped to look at us with amazement, perhaps wondering if they should have a go themselves.  We took pity on a novice mountain-biker who was sliding gingerly down the footpath and we stopped off to adjust his bike and give him a few pointers.  All too soon, and before you could say “trottinette-tastic” we had arrived in the village and were grinning from ear to ear.  “Again…?” we said in unison and then burst out laughing.

Trottinette rental

Rent your trottinette for 15 CHF per hour at the la Tzoumaz telecabin base station, or 20 CHF including one-way lift ticket

http://www.verbierbooking.ch/en/activites-ete/trottinette-0-175

Be prepared

Take good trainers or hiking boots, a cycle helmet if you have one (they’ll lend you one if you don’t), long sleeves/long trousers and mountain-bike gloves

Recommended for

Group or family activity on a dry day

Not recommended for

Children under 7 or the faint-hearted

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Leaving La Tzoumaz, Andrew admires the lawns of the chalets below our route, especially the best looking one which isn’t real grass. We pass the wood cutter cutting wood, and the road winds into the forest below the Vallon d’Arby. The road descends, sometimes steeply, sometimes gently, becoming more of a track than a road. Streams cross it, we hear birds in the trees. The colours of the trees are magical. As we walk round the head of the valley we feel the coolness of pockets of cold air, then warmth as we come back into the sun. To our left we see more and more spectacular views of La Tzoumaz, perched under the Savoleyers and the Pierre-Avoir. We pass trails joining from both sides and wonder where they go. Crossing another bridge we reach the Iserables side of the valley. We’re out of the forests into the open fields we’ve been looking at from our windows. We pass a sign telling us about roman artefacts found here, and see strange houses, built of wood and raised from the ground one stilts. We pass a mountain torrent bubbling under the road. John and Andrew stop to play pooh sticks, but the stream is flowing so fast the sticks vanish in an instant. We end up working as a team, with one person dropping the stick and the others trying to see it as it flashes down the mountain.

As we come into Iserables, it’s clear it is a unique town. Road access to the town was only opened in the 1960’s; before that the only route was via the cable-car (built in 1940) or on foot. Being there feels like stepping back in time, to how small mountain towns really were 70 years ago. The houses are so close to each other there’s barely space for a single car on the road. In the centre of the town, the closeness of the old buildings and the dark windows feels almost oppressive. Coming to the church we see roads angling up and roads angling down. From here we’re back in the sunlight and can see the town of Riddes and the Rhone Valley opening up below us. The boys are clearly tired after the 5km walk, Andrew is on my shoulders. We’re all happy to reach the top station of the cable car from where we’ll get the local bus back to La Tzoumaz. Back home, we watch the lights of Iserables that evening. “We were there”, says Andrew proudly.

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“Err… how far do we have to walk?” asked Richard with concerned edge to his voice, as he breathed heavily in the thin air.

“You’re going to walk a hundred metres and stop for lunch,” replied my husband in a soothing tone.

“Ahhhh… excellent news.  That’s exactly what I needed to hear!” chuckled Richard with pleasure.

Laura was bright and chatty as always as she handed us our plates of “Assiette Valaisanne”, a deliciously assembled selection of very finely-sliced cold meats and local cheeses served on a wooden block with wholesome, nutty bread.  The forest hut is a cosy and informative place, and the staff are very knowledgeable about their surroundings.  Laura showed us the freshly-cut sprigs of apple mint that the local bar uses for their mojitos, and a tasty-looking plate of bolets that she had just picked and was planning to eat later.

We sat outside on a wooden picnic table in the shade of a huge larch tree, overlooking the stunning mountain panorama, with its jaw-dropping views across the Rhone valley some 1000m below.

Feeling suitably prepared for a post-prandial stroll in the forest,we announced that we were heading off along the Five Senses Nature Trail (Sentier des Sens).  Laura duly handed us a satchel filled with wooden boxes and wished us a pleasant walk.  Each wooden box contained a bird whistle and some instructions on how to communicate with the specific bird depicted on the box.

Within minutes we were in the calm of the larch forest, and I started blowing on the whistles with all of my imaginative genius, desperately peeping and cooing in an attempt to sound realistic.  The forest responded with silence, although I suspected I could hear it chuckling quietly at my foolishness.

“Are you hunting the birds?  Will you shoot them…?  Eat them…?” asked one lady who walked past, eyeing me suspiciously as she tried to peer into the satchel for evidence of a feathered feast in the making.

After a few more minutes perfecting my Pipit whistle, I suddenly heard a clear response from further up the footpath somewhere.  A bird had responded, perhaps thinking I was a potential mate!  A thrill rushed through me and we all hushed excitedly.  Out of the trees came another group, walking towards us with their own satchel, and we all burst out laughing as we realised that they had been making their own Pipit calls in response to ours.

“Here, let me try the Song Thrush!” said Richard, gamely, when they were once again out of earshot.  What happened next had us briefly stunned into silence.  He proceeded to chirp and whistle on the small wooden device, and expertly finished the call with a little trill.  The response was immediate, and from the tree tops we clearly heard the call exactly repeated.  Another tune, with different chirps and trills, and again we heard the response.  Laughing with glee now, we urged him to do another, then another.  Within minutes there was a crowd of other people gathering round us and pointing with joy towards the tree-tops as yet another response rang out from above.  Here’s a sound file that will help you to understand how hard it is to imitate:

This simple connection with nature had brought the forest to us and as we walked on, it seemed now that we were hyper-tuned to the wonders around us.  Birds fluttered from tree to tree, flowers were suddenly loaded with butterfiles and bumble bees, and mushrooms appeared all along the sides of the path wherever we looked, seeming to sprout up just in front of our eyes.

The mile-and-a-half-long circuit was too soon finished, and we stopped off to share our success stories with Laura.  She was expertly multi-tasking, serving beers from the bar, delivering food to the tables and chatting with everyone who wandered in or out.  She froze in shock when she heard Richard, the Bird Whisperer, chirping and trilling on the whistle.

“Wow!” she exclaimed.  “I’ve been working here for over five years, and I’ve never heard anyone play the bird whistle that expertly!  What are your rates?  Can we hire you as a guide?”

“I was just messing around…” said Richard, looking pleased with himself.

The Maison de la Foret in La Tzoumaz is a kilometer or two above the village and is open from early June to the end of September 9.00 – 17.00, with a range of activities that engage the five senses for young and old to enjoy.  It is pram- and wheelchair-friendly and accessible to all.  Don’t miss the children’s playground and the interactive wildlife display rooms before you head off to walk around the circuit.

Further information from the Maison de la Foret website, with pictures and videos (text in French only):

http://sentier-des-sens.jimdo.com

You can learn more about the Song Thrush on the RSPB website:

http://www.rspb.org.uk/wildlife/birdguide/name/s/songthrush/

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 Walking

The forests are magical for children as well as for adults.  The Bisses are a great introduction to hiking, being flat and full of interest.  The Sentier des Sens from the maison de la foret is full of activities and snippets of information which children love.  For the more adventurous, the hike up the Vallon d’Arbi to the Col des Mines is a good day out.  Running through a nature reserve, it’s possible to see chamois and Marmots, and in season bilberries grow on the route.  A final adventure for younger children is to hike along the back road to the ancient village of Iserables.  This walk is mainly down hill, and there’s a bus service back to La Tzoumaz if the walk home is too much.

Playgounds

There are three playgrounds in the village: in the village square, opposite the telecabin and at the Maison de la Foret.  Just over the ridge in Verbier there are several more, including the Ecole de Ski Suisse summer adventure area.

Cycling

Heading down to the valley, the Velo Route 1 passes very close by, and follows the Rhone.  This is super for children, being extremely flat and with few cars.  Additionally, the website is excellent with a list of 20 tourist activities in the Martigny/Sion area:

http://www.veloland.ch/fr/itineraires/etappe-0932.html

http://www.veloland.ch/fr/services/sehenswuerdigkeiten-e932.html

Labyrinthe, the worlds largest maze

It’s an ideal place to go outside the main summer season, as there are many activities which can only be done by one or two children at a time, so at this time of year with few people it’s the best time to go.  Our kids spent a full day there and didn’t get around to trying everything.

http://www.labyrinthe.ch/

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